I started following skin care guru Caroline Hirons several years ago and totally revamped my skin care routine and products based on her recommendations; my skin has never been happier!
One of the products she introduced me to in her blog was Lotion P50, an exfoliating toner from French skin care brand Biologique Recherche. This “holy grail” exfoliant has been around for ages and has a serious cult following in the skin care community. I just had to have it…and now it’s mine! Did it live up to the hype?
What Does Lotion P50 Do?
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 isn’t a lotion at all; it’s actually a liquid chemical exfoliant, a.k.a. acid toner, that can be applied directly to the skin using your hands or a cotton pad. According to skin care guru Caroline Hirons, it’s designed to strengthen and exfoliate the skin and many long-time users of Lotion P50 claim it’s a “facial in a bottle”.
What is exfoliation? It’s the process by which dead skin cells are broken down and sloughed away. In the case of Lotion P50, the acids in the solution break down the dead skin cells so they can be easily removed to reveal smoother, brighter skin underneath.
Exfoliating skin regularly with Lotion P50 will help remove dark spots, acne, regulate sebum (oil) output, minimize enlarged pores, reduce fine lines, wrinkles and texture and will also help skin care products be absorbed better by the skin afterwards.
RELATED READING: 3 Ways To Exfoliate Your Skin
What Is Lotion P50T? Which Lotion P50 Is Right For You?
Lotion P50T is a milder version of the original Lotion P50. P50T was developed for all skin types and claims to exfoliate, moisturize, calm and recondition the skin while reducing sebum (oil) production.
There are a few versions of the Lotion P50 out there, so here is the quick guide on each:
-Lotion P50 – developed for seborrheic and hyper-keratinized (acneic) skin with almost 13% AHA – wish I could get my hands on this formula
-P50 PIGM 400 – designed for skin types suffering from hyper-pigmentation and dullness.
-P50V – vitamin-enriched, developed for less toned/hydrated skin types (a.k.a. more “mature” or dry skin)
-P50W – milder formula, developed for sensitive skin
-P50T – developed for countries like Canada that require a certain minimum pH level and only allow up to 10% AHA for consumers. P50T is therefore less acidic than the regular P50 Lotion (thanks a lot Health Canada, you suck).
I had a hard time finding this toner in Canada and only the P50 PIGM 400 and P50T are available for purchase at this online store.
Key Ingredients of Lotion P50T:
- Glycerin and Urea – moisturizing
- Niacinamide – cell-communicating, fights acne, promotes smaller pores and brightness
- Lactic Acid and Citric Acid – exfoliating ingredients
- Arctium Lappa Root – skin soothing
- Vinegar – natural preservative (and yes, you can smell the vinegar, it stinks!)
Lotion P50T is alcohol free!
How To Use Lotion P50 In Your Skin Care Routine
As a chemical exfoliant, Lotion P50 should be applied immediately after cleansing and drying your skin. It can be applied directly to the skin using your hands or a cotton pad. Do you wash off Lotion P50? No – this liquid acid solution is left on the skin and not rinsed away in order to exfoliate the skin.
If you are new to chemical exfoliants, apply Lotion P50 no more than twice a week in the evening to determine how well it is tolerated by your skin. Reduce or discontinue use if your skin reacts badly to it (e.g. experiences redness, tightness, flakiness after each use).
What Shouldn’t Be Used With Lotion P50? Because Lotion P50 exfoliates the skin, be careful not to use strong or potentially irritating skin care products afterwards (e.g. acid serums/peels, retinoids, vitamin C) until you are sure your skin can tolerate them used in the same application.
How Long Does It Take For Lotion P50 To Work?
The results of using any skin care product differ for everyone. People who have never used an acid exfoliant may see results within the first week or two of use, while others may not see the full benefits of the product until 2-3 months of use. In general, you should use a skin care product consistently for at least 3 months before deciding whether it has provided you with any benefit. Sometimes, it’s not until we stop using a product that we realize what it has been doing for our skin.
How Did Lotion P50T Work For Me?
The first thing I noticed with P50T is the smell of vinegar and I can’t help but think I’m mixing a salad whenever I apply it to my face. The smell is not strong enough to put me off using the product, but it’s the first thing I notice when I open the cap. Most people say they get used to it over time and if I was able to bear the strong scent of The Body Shop’s Rose Petal Gel Toner, then I guess I can live with a whiff of vinegar now and again.
I don’t use P50T every night (I like to rotate my exfoliating toners) but when I do, I like to pat it onto my skin and skip the cotton pad. There’s no stinging sensation at all and I never experience any dryness, redness or other form of irritation with it.
Results? Very good! My skin texture is smoother and brighter and my pores are tighter.
However, I really wish I could get my hands on the stronger stuff (I hate you Health Canada, you’re also the reason I can’t buy the 30% AHA from The Ordinary – you’re on my shitlist).
If I re-order, I think I’ll try the P50 PIGM 400 and see if it has more kick, although I can’t complain with how P50T is working. It does what it claims and I’m very happy with the smoother texture of my cheeks and forehead since adding it into my routine.
Complaints? I’m not a fan of the price tag; the medium sized bottle (150mL) cost me $88CAD after taxes, so I’ll expect good results to continue to justify re-purchasing, especially since I have several exfoliating toners that work very well for a fraction of the price. I’m also not a fan of how it dispenses the toner through a hole in the top of the bottle; I wish it had a pump like my Cosrx AHA toner – so much easier to use.
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Where Can You Buy Lotion P50T In Canada?
You can find a full list of online retailers and salons that sell or use Lotion P50 here.
Overall, I’m happy with my Biologique Recherche Lotion P50T, but only time will tell if I want to permanently keep my place in the cult…
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