Retinol, how do I love you? Let me count the ways….
I’ve wanted to do this post for a while now so I could share my love of this powerful skin care ingredient and educate as many people as possible about how to use retinol for beginners.
But there are a lot of myths and misconceptions surrounding retinol, so I wanted to take the time to share what I’ve learned about retinol, how to use retinol and how it can work for you.
And trust me, this stuff is an anti-aging dream…when used properly.
*this post contains affiliate links*
But First, What Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are a class of chemical compounds derived from vitamin A or are chemically similar to it. They are known for their beneficial effects on the skin, particularly in addressing various skin concerns and promoting cell turnover. Here are some of the different types of retinoids:
- Retinol: Retinol is the most common and well-known form of retinoid. It is converted by the body into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid, the active form that provides the desired effects on the skin.
- Retinaldehyde: Retinaldehyde, also known as Retinal, is a more potent form of retinoid compared to retinol. It requires one less conversion step in the body to be converted into retinoic acid, making it more readily available for use by the skin.
- Retinoic acid: Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is the active form of vitamin A. It is the strongest retinoid available and is often used in prescription medications for treating acne and other skin conditions. It requires no further conversion in the body to be effective.
- Adapalene: Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that is commonly used in the treatment of acne. It is available both as a prescription medication and in lower concentrations as an over-the-counter treatment.
- Tazarotene: Tazarotene is another synthetic retinoid that is used topically to treat acne and psoriasis. It is available only with a prescription.
- Isotretinoin: Isotretinoin is a powerful oral retinoid that is primarily used for treating severe acne that does not respond to other treatments. It is usually prescribed under close medical supervision due to its potential side effects.
11 Retinol Tips For Beginners
1. It Does A LOT More Than Just Fight Wrinkles
A lot of people think retinol should only be used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, but it’s also amazing at minimizing pores (which I can definitely attest to), smoothing out skin texture, fading dark spots and scars, fighting acne/blackheads, boosting collagen production and evening out skin tone. Basically, it does everything but make your bed for you. If you have any of the skin issues listed above, retinol can definitely help.
2. Over 25? Time To Go Retinol Shopping
Retinol is normally recommended for people in their late 20’s and older. This is because our cell turnover begins to get lazy after the age of 25. Slower cell turnover means your skin is producing new skin cells and pushing them to the surface at a much slower rate and this process only gets slower as you age. Retinol encourages the skin’s cell turnover process, which is why anyone approaching or over 30 should think about giving their skin this much needed kick in the butt.
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3. Retinoids Can Be Irritating
While retinoids do a host of amazing things for skin, it can also cause redness, tightness, dryness and flakiness depending on the strength used, how often it’s used, the sensitivity of your skin, the type of retinoid being used and your skin’s experience with retinol.
For retinol newbies, take baby steps. Find a retinol product with a low concentration of retinol in it (e.g under 1%). Apply it once per week for two weeks and gauge how your skin reacts to it.
Gradually increase use only if your skin can tolerate it. Over time, your skin will become more tolerant to retinol and the irritation should end.
4. Retinol Is Not Safe For Use During Pregnancy/Breastfeeding
As a precaution, doctors recommend that you not use retinol while pregnant or breastfeeding. Although there is no evidence of topical retinol causing adverse effects to a fetus or baby (oral retinoids are a different story), doctors will advise against retinol use during this time, as its effects are still unknown. Vitamin C and Bakuchiol (a gentle retinol alternative) are safe for use during pregnancy/breastfeeding.
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5. Apply It In The Correct Order
Retinol is meant to be applied on dry skin directly after cleansing your skin for best results.
6. Retinoids Should Be Applied To Dry Skin
Most instructions will tell you to apply retinol to dry skin. This is because it’s generally believed that applying products onto damp skin will deliver active ingredients deeper into your skin, which could increase irritation if the main ingredient is retinol.
7. More Product ≠ Faster Results
You don’t need to bathe your face in retinol to get results. A pea-sized amount spread over the face is more than enough to get the job done. Don’t waste the good stuff when you don’t have to!
8. It Can Be Used With Acids, But Be Careful!
There is a general misconception that acid toning and retinol usage will over exfoliate the skin, or that acid toners reduce the effectiveness of retinol. Not true! Retinol and acid toners work on totally different levels and in different ways. Acid toners work on the top layer of the skin to remove dead skin cells, while retinol (which converts to retinoic acid) communicates with the cells deep within the skin.
That being said, always listen to your skin and do what works for you. If you find acid toning with retinol causes irritation, adjust your skin care routine and keep your skin happy. For reference, skin that becomes red, tight or flaky after using a product is not happy.
9. It Can Be Used Around The Eyes
The skin around the eyes is much thinner than the skin on the rest of your face. This means that the eye area has the potential to absorb more product and higher absorption could lead to more irritation.
If you experience irritation around the eyes, consider switching to a lower strength retinol. Many brands also have retinol products specifically made for use around the eyes.
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10. Apply It At Night
Retinol breaks down when exposed to the sun, so it’s best to apply it at night. If you do wear retinol during the day and are going outside, be sure to apply a broad spectrum sunscreen of SPF 30 or more and re-apply the sunscreen as directed. Retinol can also make your skin photo-sensitive which is why sunscreen is a must!
11. Results Can Take Time
Retinol is a powerful skin care ingredient and while some improvements to the skin may happen after just a few applications, the real benefits of retinol use can take 3-6 months to be seen.
You will also need to continue using retinol to maintain your results.
Retinoid Products I’ve Been Using
The first retinol I ever tried and immediately fell in love with is the Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment (reviewed here).
1% is considered a higher dosage of retinol, so it may be a little strong for newbies. I also love The Inkey List Retinol – it’s super gentle and perfect for beginners to retinoids!
Not only is this retinol super cheap, but it could be a great option for retinol virgins or sensitive skin types.
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